Perthshire sits right where lowland Scotland tips into Highland Scotland. It is Big Tree Country, home to some of the oldest and tallest trees in Europe, cathedral-like forests, waterfalls, whisky distilleries, and a string of characterful towns along the A9 corridor. Most visitors pass through Perthshire on their way north and barely stop. That is a mistake.
I drive this road constantly. Our Edinburgh to Inverness transfers run straight through the heart of Perthshire, and I always build in stops because the quality of what is here deserves more than a motorway-speed glimpse. This guide covers everything worth seeing and the practical details you need.
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Big Tree Country
Perthshire has been called Big Tree Country since the 18th century, when the Dukes of Atholl planted millions of trees across their estates. Some of those plantings have matured into genuinely extraordinary forests. The Fortingall Yew, in a churchyard near Loch Tay, is estimated to be between 3,000 and 5,000 years old, making it one of the oldest living organisms in Europe.
The Birnam Oak near Dunkeld is the last survivor of the great forest that Shakespeare referenced in Macbeth. The Hermitage, a few miles north of Dunkeld, contains Douglas firs that are among the tallest trees in Britain, some exceeding 60 metres. These are not abstract statistics. When you stand beneath them, the scale is humbling.
The Hermitage and Ossian’s Hall
The Hermitage is a National Trust for Scotland property just off the A9 near Dunkeld. A well-surfaced path leads through enormous Douglas firs to Ossian’s Hall, an 18th-century folly perched above the Black Linn waterfall on the River Braan. The combination of the giant trees, the roaring falls, and the enclosed viewing hall creates something genuinely atmospheric.
The walk from the car park to the falls takes about 15 minutes each way. It is mostly flat and accessible to most visitors. Longer paths extend deeper into the forest if you want more. The car park can fill in summer, so arriving before 10am or after 3pm helps. I stop here on nearly every Edinburgh to Inverness run because it never fails to impress, and the walk is just long enough to break up the driving without derailing the schedule.
Dunkeld
Dunkeld is a small cathedral town on the banks of the Tay. It has one of those rare high streets where everything feels right: whitewashed houses, independent shops, good food, and no chain-store blight. The cathedral ruins sit beside the river and are open year-round. Parts of the building date to the 12th century.
Thomas Telford’s bridge over the Tay is a fine piece of engineering and gives a lovely view back to the town. The river walk downstream from the cathedral is gentle, flat, and popular with families. Dunkeld is also the jumping-off point for the Loch of the Lowes nature reserve, one of the best places in Scotland to see ospreys between April and August.
Pitlochry
Pitlochry is the busy hub of Highland Perthshire. The main street is packed with shops, hotels, and restaurants. It is tourist-friendly in a way that can feel slightly overwhelming in high summer, but the town earns its popularity because there is so much to do within walking distance.
The dam and fish ladder are free to visit. Between May and October, you can watch salmon making their way upstream through a series of pools beside the hydroelectric dam. It is unexpectedly fascinating. Pitlochry Festival Theatre, across the river, runs a full programme through the summer and is one of Scotland’s best-regarded repertory theatres.
Blair Athol distillery sits at the southern end of town and offers tours throughout the year. It produces a smooth, honeyed malt and the distillery building itself is handsome. For a more intimate experience, Edradour is ten minutes east of Pitlochry, tucked into a narrow glen. It is Scotland’s smallest traditional distillery, still using hand-operated equipment, and the tour feels like stepping back a century.
Killiecrankie and Blair Castle
The Pass of Killiecrankie, a few miles north of Pitlochry, is a wooded gorge where a Jacobite force routed government troops in 1689. The NTS visitor centre tells the story well, and the gorge itself is beautiful, a narrow wooded ravine with the River Garry tumbling through it. Soldier’s Leap, where a government trooper supposedly jumped 18 feet across the gorge to escape, is marked with a viewpoint.
Blair Castle, further north, is the seat of the Duke of Atholl and home to the only legal private army in Europe, the Atholl Highlanders. The castle is white, turreted, and sits against a backdrop of wooded hills. Inside, the collection is excellent: arms, taxidermy, furniture, and a history that spans 700 years. The grounds and the Hercules Garden are worth time on their own.
Falls of Bruar and Aberfeldy
The Falls of Bruar, just off the A9 north of Blair Athol, are reached by a well-marked path that climbs through woodland to a series of waterfalls and stone bridges. Robert Burns visited in 1787 and wrote a poem petitioning the Duke of Atholl to plant trees around the bare falls. The Duke obliged, and the result today is a beautiful wooded gorge. The walk takes about 45 minutes to the upper bridge and back.
Aberfeldy, west of Pitlochry on the A827, is a quieter alternative to the A9 corridor towns. Dewar’s World of Whisky sits on the edge of town and offers one of the better distillery experiences in the region. The Birks of Aberfeldy walk, another Burns connection, climbs through birch woodland to a waterfall and is one of those short walks that delivers far more than its length suggests.
Queen’s View, Loch Tummel, and Loch Tay
Queen’s View at the eastern end of Loch Tummel is one of Scotland’s classic viewpoints. Despite the name, it was not named for Victoria but for an earlier queen, Isabella, wife of Robert the Bruce. The view west down the loch to the cone of Schiehallion is on every Highland calendar and deserves to be. There is a small visitor centre and cafe at the car park.
Loch Tay, further south, stretches 14 miles from Kenmore to Killin. Kenmore is a pretty village at the eastern end, and the Scottish Crannog Centre (a recreated Iron Age loch dwelling) is a surprisingly engaging visit. The road along the south shore of Loch Tay to Killin is quiet, scenic, and a good route to or from the west if you want to avoid the A9.
The A9 Corridor: Practical Realities
The A9 is Scotland’s main artery between Perth and Inverness, and it runs straight through Perthshire. It is currently being dualled in sections, which means roadworks, temporary speed limits, and occasional delays. Average speed cameras cover most of the route, enforcing 60mph on single carriageway and 70mph on dual. Respect them. They are active and the fines are real.
The road is well surfaced and perfectly safe, but it mixes single and dual carriageway, which creates frustration when you are stuck behind a slow vehicle on single sections. A private driver who knows the road, the passing places, and the timing makes a material difference to how pleasant the journey feels. That is one reason our Edinburgh to Inverness transfers are popular.
Why Perthshire Works as a Touring Stop
Perthshire sits between the central belt and the Highlands, which makes it ideal for breaking a longer journey. If you are heading from Edinburgh to Inverness or Skye, a two to three hour stop in Perthshire transforms a motorway transfer into a proper touring day. The Hermitage, Dunkeld, and one distillery make a natural sequence without adding excessive mileage.
We build Perthshire stops into our private Edinburgh tours and Inverness chauffeur services as standard when clients are making the cross-Scotland journey. It is the difference between a transfer and an experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Perthshire worth a full day or just a stop on the way north?
Both work. If you are transferring between Edinburgh and Inverness, a two to three hour Perthshire stop adds enormously to the journey. But Perthshire easily fills a full day: The Hermitage, Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Killiecrankie, Edradour distillery and Blair Castle would make a packed but brilliant itinerary.
How long does it take to drive from Edinburgh to Pitlochry?
About an hour and 40 minutes on the A9 without stops. Allow two hours in practice, more if you want to stop at The Hermitage or Dunkeld on the way. From Glasgow it is a similar time via the M80 and A9.
What are the average speed cameras on the A9?
The A9 between Dunblane and Inverness has average speed cameras on most stretches, enforcing 60mph on single carriageway and 70mph on dual. They are active and enforced. Stay at the limit and relax. The cameras actually make the road calmer to drive.
Is The Hermitage walk suitable for all ages?
Yes. The main path from the car park to Ossian's Hall is well surfaced, mostly flat, and takes about 15 minutes each way. Pushchairs manage it in dry conditions. The waterfall viewpoint is spectacular and accessible to most visitors.
Can you visit Edradour distillery without booking?
Walk-ins are sometimes possible, but booking is strongly recommended, especially between May and September. Edradour is Scotland's smallest traditional distillery and tour groups are kept very small, which is part of what makes the visit so good.
Related Guides
- Cairngorms National Park Guide - the mountains and forests immediately north of Perthshire
- Speyside Whisky Region Guide - continue north from Perthshire into Scotland’s whisky heartland
- Inverness and the Surrounding Highlands - where the A9 takes you at the northern end
- Kingdom of Fife Guide - combine Perthshire with St Andrews and the East Neuk
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