Orkney is unlike anywhere else in Scotland. The islands sit just off the north coast, separated by the Pentland Firth, and once you cross that water you are in a different world. The archaeology here is staggering. Skara Brae is 5,000 years old, older than the pyramids. The Ring of Brodgar and Maeshowe are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Add Norse heritage, wartime history, sea cliffs, exceptional food and a community that is fiercely independent, and you have one of the most rewarding destinations in the British Isles.
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Getting to Orkney
There are two main ferry routes. NorthLink runs from Scrabster (near Thurso) to Stromness. The crossing takes about 90 minutes and the approach into Stromness harbour, past Hoy's sea cliffs, is one of the great ferry arrivals in Britain. Pentland Ferries runs from Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope on South Ronaldsay. It is about an hour and often has better availability at shorter notice.
Flights run from Inverness, Edinburgh and Aberdeen to Kirkwall Airport. The flight from Inverness is about 45 minutes. If time is tight, flying one way and taking the ferry the other gives you the best of both.
From Inverness the drive to Scrabster is about two and a half hours via the A9 through Sutherland. It is a beautiful drive in its own right, passing through some of the emptiest landscape in Britain.
The Heart of Neolithic Orkney
This is what most people come for and it does not disappoint. Skara Brae is a Neolithic village preserved under sand for thousands of years, uncovered by a storm in 1850. The stone furniture, hearths and drainage are still intact. Standing there, looking at beds and dressers made 5,000 years ago, is genuinely moving.
The Ring of Brodgar is a stone circle and henge on a narrow strip of land between two lochs. It is atmospheric at any time of day but particularly at sunset when the light catches the stones. The Stones of Stenness nearby are older still and equally impressive.
Maeshowe is a chambered cairn from around 2800 BC. You enter through a low passage and emerge into a central chamber aligned with the winter solstice. The walls are covered in Viking runic graffiti from the 12th century, some of it surprisingly mundane ("Ingigerth is the most beautiful of all women" is one). Booking is essential.
Kirkwall
Orkney's main town has a real buzz. St Magnus Cathedral, founded in 1137 by Norse Earl Rognvald, is built from red and yellow sandstone and is still in active use. It is one of the finest medieval buildings in Scotland.
The narrow streets around the cathedral have good independent shops, the Orkney Museum (free, excellent) and pubs on Albert Street where you can try Orkney ales. Highland Park distillery is right in Kirkwall and produces one of the most respected whiskies in Scotland. The tour is well run and the whisky is superb.
Stromness
Stromness is smaller and quieter than Kirkwall, with narrow flagstone streets that wind down to the harbour. It has a different feel, more maritime, more intimate. Hamnavoe restaurant on the main street is excellent for seafood. The pier area is lovely for a wander, especially in the evening light.
The Italian Chapel and Scapa Flow
The Italian Chapel on the island of Lamb Holm was built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II from two Nissen huts. They transformed corrugated iron into a beautiful chapel with painted walls and a wrought iron facade. It is remarkable and deeply moving.
Scapa Flow, the vast natural harbour between the islands, was a major naval base in both World Wars. The German High Seas Fleet was scuttled here in 1919. Several wrecks remain on the seabed and are popular with divers. The Churchill Barriers, built to protect the anchorage after a U-boat sank HMS Royal Oak in 1939, now serve as causeways connecting the southern islands.
Coastal walking and wildlife
The Yesnaby sea stacks on the west coast are dramatic, with sheer cliffs and a sea stack called the Castle of Yesnaby. Marwick Head is an RSPB reserve with huge seabird colonies in summer, thousands of guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes on the cliff faces.
For island hopping, Hoy has the Old Man of Hoy sea stack (visible from the Scrabster ferry) and serious walking. Westray has puffins at Castle o' Burrian. Rousay is known as the "Egypt of the north" for its concentration of archaeological sites.
Food and drink
Orkney's food is exceptional. Orkney beef is among the best in Britain. Orkney cheese and Orkney fudge are local staples. Scapa whisky and Highland Park are both distilled in Kirkwall. Local breweries produce excellent ales.
The Foveran in Kirkwall, Hamnavoe in Stromness and the various small cafes and bakeries across the islands all serve good, honest food using local ingredients.
How long to spend
Two days is the minimum to see the main sites without rushing. Three days lets you add island hopping, coastal walking and a more relaxed pace. Five days or more suits anyone who wants to explore the outer islands and really get to know Orkney. A day trip is not viable and I would not recommend it.
Frequently asked questions
Can you do Orkney as a day trip from Inverness?
Technically possible but not recommended. The drive to the ferry port is about two and a half hours, then the crossing is 90 minutes. By the time you arrive, explore and catch the return ferry you will be exhausted and see very little. Two to three days with an overnight in Kirkwall is the way to do Orkney properly.
Which ferry should I take to Orkney?
NorthLink from Scrabster to Stromness takes about 90 minutes and is the most scenic crossing. Pentland Ferries from Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope takes about an hour and is often easier to book at shorter notice. Both work well.
What is the best time to visit Orkney?
May to September gives the best weather and longest days. June has nearly 24 hours of daylight. Seabird colonies are most active May to July. Winter is dramatic but some sites have reduced hours and the weather can be fierce.
What are the must-see sites on Orkney?
Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, Maeshowe, St Magnus Cathedral and the Italian Chapel. If you have a third day, Hoy (Old Man of Hoy) and the coastal walking at Yesnaby are exceptional.
Do I need to book ferry tickets in advance?
Yes, especially in summer. Both NorthLink and Pentland Ferries can sell out, particularly for vehicles. Book as early as you can. We handle ferry bookings as part of our multi-day Orkney tours.
Related guides
Inverness and Surrounding Highlands · Outer Hebrides · Wester Ross · Cairngorms National Park
