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Dunnottar Castle, Aberdeenshire

Destination Guide

Aberdeenshire: Castles, Coastline, Whisky, and Royal Deeside

The Castle Trail, fishing villages, granite city, whisky and the royal connection. A local driver's guide to the North East.

Aberdeenshire is one of those parts of Scotland that surprises people. It tends to get overlooked in favour of the west coast and the Highlands proper, but there is more variety packed into this corner of the North East than almost anywhere else in the country. Castles by the dozen, a coastline of dramatic cliffs and hidden fishing villages, Royal Deeside, whisky, world-class golf, and Aberdeen itself, the granite city. I drive clients through Aberdeenshire regularly and it never disappoints.

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The Castle Trail

Aberdeenshire has the highest concentration of castles in the UK. The official Castle Trail covers 19 sites, but you do not need to see them all. Here are the ones I always recommend.

Dunnottar Castle is the showstopper. A ruined fortress on a sea cliff just south of Stonehaven, it is one of the most dramatic settings in Scotland. The Scottish Crown Jewels were hidden here from Cromwell's forces. The approach walk along the cliff is spectacular and the views from the ruins are unforgettable.

Crathes Castle near Banchory has remarkable painted ceilings from the 16th century and beautiful walled gardens. It is well maintained by the National Trust and makes a lovely half-day stop combined with a walk along the Dee.

Craigievar Castle, the pink castle, looks like something from a fairy tale. It is thought to have inspired Walt Disney. Small, intimate and beautifully preserved. Castle Fraser is grander, a classic Z-plan tower house with good grounds. Drum Castle near Peterculter combines a medieval tower with a Jacobean mansion and has one of the oldest tower houses in Scotland.

The coast: fishing villages and sea cliffs

The Aberdeenshire coastline is exceptional and far quieter than the west. Start at Stonehaven, where the art deco outdoor swimming pool (heated, right on the seafront) is a local institution and the Tolbooth restaurant serves some of the best seafood in the North East.

Head north and you reach the fishing villages. Pennan is the tiny harbour village from the film Local Hero, tucked under towering cliffs. Crovie (pronounced "Crivee") is even smaller, a single row of cottages squeezed between the cliff and the sea, so narrow you cannot get a car down to it. Gardenstown clings to the cliff face nearby. These are genuine working fishing communities, not tourist villages, and that is what makes them special.

The cliffs between Stonehaven and Cruden Bay are home to thousands of nesting seabirds in spring and summer. Fowlsheugh near Stonehaven is an RSPB reserve with huge colonies of guillemots, razorbills and puffins.

Aberdeen: the Granite City

Aberdeen gets unfairly dismissed as an oil town, but the city has genuine character. The granite buildings shimmer in the light, especially on a sunny day when the mica in the stone catches the sun. Old Aberdeen around the university and St Machar's Cathedral is beautiful. Footdee (locally known as Fittie) is a quirky fishing village right at the harbour mouth, with colourful sheds and an independent spirit.

The Aberdeen Maritime Museum is excellent, covering the city's fishing heritage and the North Sea oil story. Union Street has the shops, and the restaurants have improved significantly in recent years.

Royal Deeside

The Dee valley west of Aberdeen is known as Royal Deeside thanks to Queen Victoria and Balmoral. It is beautiful, gentle countryside with villages, castles and walks along the river. We cover this in detail in our Royal Deeside guide, but the highlights include Balmoral itself (seasonal access), Ballater, Braemar and the Fife Arms, and the walks at Linn of Dee.

Whisky

Aberdeenshire is not Speyside, but it has its own whisky character. GlenDronach near Huntly is a favourite for sherry cask lovers, with a distillery that feels properly old school. Glen Garioch (pronounced "Glen Geerie") in Oldmeldrum is one of Scotland's oldest distilleries. Royal Lochnagar sits right beside Balmoral and offers intimate tours with a royal warrant.

Speyside is only an hour from Aberdeen too, so combining Aberdeenshire castles with a distillery visit is straightforward. See our Speyside whisky guide for more.

Golf

Aberdeenshire has some outstanding links courses. Royal Aberdeen, Cruden Bay, Trump International and Murcar Links are all world-class. See our Aberdeenshire golf transfers for course details and private transport.

Where to eat

The Tolbooth in Stonehaven is the standout for seafood, set right on the harbour. In Aberdeen, Moonfish Cafe is small, creative and consistently excellent. The Silver Darling at the harbour mouth has great fish and views. Further west in Deeside, Ballater and Braemar both have good dining.

Getting here and getting around

Aberdeen Airport has flights from London, Manchester, Birmingham and other UK cities. From Inverness, Aberdeen is about two and a half hours by road via the A96. From Edinburgh, roughly two and a half hours via the A90.

A private chauffeur from Aberdeen is the best way to see the castles, coast and countryside without the logistics of navigating unfamiliar rural roads. We handle the routing and timing so you can enjoy the day.

Frequently asked questions

How many castles are on the Aberdeenshire Castle Trail?

There are 19 castles and historic sites on the official Castle Trail, though you will not cover them all in a single day. Dunnottar, Crathes, Castle Fraser and Craigievar are the highlights and can be visited comfortably in a day with a private driver.

Is Aberdeenshire worth visiting for a day trip?

Absolutely. From Aberdeen you can do the Castle Trail, the coastal villages or Royal Deeside in a day. From Inverness it is about two and a half hours, so an overnight makes more sense if you want to explore properly.

What is the best time to visit Aberdeenshire?

May to September gives the best weather and longest days. Many castles have seasonal opening hours, so spring and summer are most practical. Autumn brings beautiful colour to the Dee valley. Winter is quieter but some sites close.

Can you visit Dunnottar Castle year round?

Dunnottar is open most of the year, though winter hours are shorter. The approach involves a walk down and back up a cliff path, so wear decent shoes. It is one of the most dramatic castle settings in Scotland and worth the effort in any season.

Where should I eat in Aberdeenshire?

The Tolbooth in Stonehaven is outstanding for seafood. In Aberdeen city, Moonfish Cafe is excellent. Ballater and Braemar have good options too, particularly the Rothesay Rooms in Ballater and the Fife Arms in Braemar.

Related guides

Royal Deeside · Speyside Whisky Region · Cairngorms National Park · Kingdom of Fife

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